Mount Cleveland

Montana Class 4 Lewis Range
Mount Cleveland in Montana, an ultra-prominent peak with 5,252 ft of prominence
Rank 48

Elevation landscape

10,466 ft

Prominence height

5,252 ft

Difficulty signal_cellular_alt

Class 4

Est. Time schedule

2–3 days

Distance route

28–32 mi

Vert Gain trending_up

6,300–6,700 ft

Mount Cleveland ranks No. 48 among the 57 ultra-prominent peaks in the contiguous United States, rising 10,466 feet in the Lewis Range of Glacier National Park, Montana, with 5,252 feet of clean prominence. It is the highest summit in Glacier National Park on the Continental Divide near the Canadian border. Most parties use the Stoney Indian Route for roughly 28 to 32 miles round-trip with about 6,300 to 6,700 feet of gain on Class 4 terrain. Backcountry permits with advance Recreation.gov reservations are required for overnight itineraries.

Climbers approaching Mount Cleveland face one of the more logistically demanding ultra-prominent peaks in the Lower 48. International border proximity, limited backcountry permit availability, long wilderness approaches, and complex route-finding make this a serious objective for experienced and self-sufficient parties. Mount Cleveland is also associated with one of Glacier National Park's most serious mountaineering tragedies: a December 1969 avalanche on the west face killed five climbers.

Recommended Route

Stoney Indian Route

The standard approach to Mount Cleveland follows the Stoney Indian Route via Stoney Indian Lake, roughly 28–32 miles round-trip depending on approach, with over 6,500 feet of cumulative elevation gain. Most parties complete the climb in 2 to 3 days. Parties commonly access the route via the Goat Haunt area, which may involve a Waterton Lake boat shuttle from Canada, or by approaching from the Kootenay Lake area. Both approaches converge near Stoney Indian Lake, the primary base camp for the route. From Stoney Indian Lake, the route traverses the exposed east side of the Stoney Indian Peaks before ascending the 3rd and 4th class summit terrain on loose scree, talus, and blocky rock. The traverse is narrow and exposed, with little margin for error. Route-finding difficulties are commonly reported, especially in poor visibility. The descent is punishing on loose terrain and requires careful navigation.

Other established approaches include the West Face Route, a serious alternative with significant avalanche exposure, the Southeast Face Route from Chief Mountain Customs via Glenns Lake and Whitecrow Glacier, and longer U.S.-based options via the Belly River Trail from Chief Mountain Customs, the Highline Trail from Logan Pass, or Many Glacier via Ptarmigan Tunnel. These alternatives generally require more time, stronger route-finding ability, and greater technical judgment than the Stoney Indian Route.

Key Landmarks

  • Stoney Indian Lake, approximately 8,100 ft
  • Stoney Indian Peaks east traverse, approximately 9,500–10,000 ft
warning

Route-finding is difficult on the Stoney Indian Peaks traverse, particularly along the exposed east-side section. Parties commonly lose the route in poor visibility. Descending in deteriorating weather on loose, unstable rock is hazardous. Early-season attempts can involve lingering snow on narrow ledges, increasing avalanche and slip risk.

Permits & Camping

Climbing Permits

Backcountry permits are required for overnight camping in Glacier National Park. Mount Cleveland is usually approached through highly competitive backcountry zones, and advance reservations through Recreation.gov are strongly recommended. Limited walk-up availability may exist, but parties should not rely on obtaining a same-day permit for this objective. Glacier National Park charges backcountry permit and per-person camping fees during the main season. Fee amounts, reservation windows, and walk-up procedures can change, so parties should confirm current requirements with Glacier National Park and Recreation.gov before planning an itinerary. Commercial guiding may be restricted and requires proper authorization. Climbers should assume they need to be self-sufficient unless they have confirmed access to a legally authorized guide service.

Camping & Wilderness

Stoney Indian Lake is the designated backcountry campsite closest to the peak, but availability is limited. Parties unable to secure Stoney Indian Lake may need to plan alternative camps at Kootenay Lake, Goat Haunt, or other permitted backcountry sites. All parties must follow Glacier National Park food-storage regulations. Approved bear-resistant storage or designated food-storage infrastructure may be required depending on the campsite. Bear spray is strongly recommended and should be readily accessible. Campfire restrictions, group-size limits, and distance-from-water regulations apply; confirm current rules with park rangers when obtaining permits.

Elevation 10,466 ft (commonly cited; LiDAR-derived sources may vary slightly). Prominence approximately 5,252 ft (ListsOfJohn). Route mileage varies by approach (Goat Haunt, Belly River, Kootenai/Kintla). Confirm current Glacier NP backcountry permit windows, fees, and access procedures on NPS/Recreation.gov before travel. International travel logistics and Canadian border proximity may affect Waterton access.

Wildlife & Seasonal Conditions

The Stoney Indian Route involves sustained scrambling on unstable scree and talus, exposed traversing with little margin for error, and complex route-finding on and around the Stoney Indian Peaks. The summit terrain includes 3rd and 4th class scrambling on loose rock. Roped climbing is not typically required for experienced parties in dry summer conditions, but exposure, loose rock, and route-finding make the route serious. Route descriptions from experienced parties consistently mention disorientation on the exposed traverse and difficulty relocating the descent route under stress, fatigue, or poor visibility. Mount Cleveland sits in a severe alpine environment where weather can deteriorate quickly, even in midsummer. Early-season attempts, especially in June and early July, may encounter heavy snowpack on narrow ledges, creating avalanche danger and serious slip risk. Late-season attempts face shorter days, colder temperatures, and early winter storms. The best climbing window is usually late July through mid-September, when snow coverage is lower and weather is generally more stable. Winter and early-spring ascents are serious mountaineering objectives requiring advanced snow, avalanche, and cold-weather skills.

Safety Information

Technical Requirements

  • Alpine Start
  • Altitude Acclimatization
  • Off-Trail Navigation
  • Loose Rock Scrambling
  • Exposed Scrambling
  • Snow Travel

Known Hazards

  • Altitude Sickness
  • Avalanche
  • Bears & Wildlife
  • Exposure
  • Hypothermia
  • Loose Rock & Scree
  • Rockfall
  • Exposed Scrambling
  • Whiteout Conditions
  • Extreme Wind & Weather

Data source: Glacier National Park, Recreation.gov, USGS, ListsOfJohn; PeakBagger/SummitPost (route, class, hazards)

add